ナンニ ダニエーレ ポルティナーリ｜ヴェネトの自然派赤ワインが注目の理由

This wine comes from the Colli Berici hills in the Veneto region of northeastern Italy, an area still relatively unknown but praised by experienced winemakers for its potential. The producer inherited approximately four hectares of vineyards from his father and transitioned to organic farming in 2004 after meeting a respected colleague from a nearby estate in Gambellara. The first vintage under his own label was released in 2008, and the cuvee is named after his eldest son Giovanni, whose nickname became the label name.

The vineyards are planted primarily with Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, varieties established by the previous generation. Some references also mention Tai Rosso, a local red grape variety historically linked to Grenache, suggesting that the blend may vary from year to year depending on conditions. The Colli Berici denomination is classified under the IGT system, allowing flexibility in blending and winemaking choices while maintaining a connection to the specific terroir of the rolling hills south of Vicenza.

Winemaking follows a minimal-intervention philosophy. After harvest, the grapes undergo maceration for roughly ten to fifteen days, depending on the vintage. Fermentation is carried out by indigenous yeast populations naturally present on the grape skins and in the cellar environment. No cultured yeasts are introduced. After pressing, the wine continues its fermentation in stainless steel tanks for several weeks, during which the lees settle naturally. The wine is then transferred to used barrels for maturation. The choice of older barrels is intentional, as it avoids imparting strong oak flavors and allows the fruit character and terroir expression to remain at the forefront.

One of the most distinctive aspects of this wine is the complete absence of added sulfites throughout the entire production process. While most wines, including many natural wines, receive at least a small dose of sulfur dioxide at bottling, this producer opts for zero additions. The wine is also bottled without filtration or fining, preserving its full texture and the natural sediment that may appear in the bottle. This approach means that each bottle can show slight variation, which is considered a hallmark of this winemaking style rather than a flaw.

The Colli Berici terroir offers well-drained soils on gentle slopes with good sun exposure. The hills create a favorable microclimate that moderates temperature extremes and promotes even ripening. Although the area has historically been overshadowed by more famous neighboring appellations, knowledgeable producers have recognized its suitability for red grape cultivation. The volcanic and calcareous soils contribute mineral nuances to the wines grown here.

The importer for this wine in Japan is a company well known for curating a portfolio of artisanal and natural wines from small Italian producers. Their involvement provides an additional layer of quality assurance, as they typically work closely with their producers and maintain careful storage and shipping conditions. The retail price positions this wine in an accessible range, making it an interesting entry point for those curious about minimal-intervention winemaking from lesser-known Italian regions.

Suggested food pairings include tomato-based pasta dishes, herb-seasoned grilled poultry, slow-cooked stews, and regional Veneto specialties such as baccala or soft polenta. The wine’s reported elegance and charming fruit profile suggest it could also complement semi-hard and mild blue cheeses. Serving the wine slightly below room temperature and allowing it to open in the glass may reveal additional layers of complexity as it warms and breathes.

For collectors and enthusiasts interested in the evolving landscape of Italian natural wine, this bottling represents a compelling intersection of family heritage, mentorship from an established figure in the movement, and a terroir that is only beginning to receive the recognition it deserves. The decision to name the wine after the winemaker’s son adds a personal dimension that resonates with the broader ethos of artisanal winemaking, where each bottle tells a story of place, people, and philosophy.