サッサイア 2024｜ラ ビアンカーラが届ける注目のヴェネト自然派白ワイン

This article provides an in-depth look at a notable natural white wine from the Gambellara area in the Veneto region of northeastern Italy. The winery was founded in 1989 by a passionate winemaker who started with just seven hectares of vineyards on volcanic soils. From the very beginning, the estate committed to organic farming without synthetic fertilizers and has never wavered from that philosophy. The vineyards benefit from southeast to southwest facing slopes, ensuring optimal sun exposure throughout the growing season. The soil is rich in volcanic minerals, which contributes significantly to the character of the wines produced here.

The grape variety used for this cuvee has a long and distinguished history in the Veneto. Records dating back to the fifteenth century describe its cultivation around Verona, Padova, and the Colli Euganei. The agricultural scholar Pier de Crescenzi mentioned the variety in his treatise, noting two distinct types and observing that the more productive one is likely the ancestor of today’s cultivar. Historically, the grape was prized for producing sweet wines and passito styles, and it was regarded as a noble variety in cities such as Padova and Bologna. Today, it is perhaps best known as the backbone of Soave wines, but it also thrives in neighboring appellations where dedicated growers coax remarkable complexity from it.

The winemaking approach at this estate is firmly rooted in minimal intervention. All wines undergo spontaneous fermentation with indigenous yeasts, and no sulfur dioxide is added at any stage up to bottling. The winemaker initially used barriques for aging but later transitioned to larger casks to allow a more faithful expression of the terroir. This evolution reflects an ongoing commitment to letting the fruit and the land speak for themselves rather than imposing winemaking techniques that might mask their natural character. The resulting wines often display a slight haze and sediment, which are hallmarks of the natural winemaking process and should be embraced rather than viewed as flaws.

The 2024 vintage presented some challenges in terms of weather conditions, yet the final wine reportedly turned out remarkably well. Compared to the preceding vintage, it is said to be more delicate and graceful in style, with a directness that allows the mineral essence and pure fruit character to shine through without obstruction. The appearance is described as a pale straw color with a slight cloudiness. On the nose, initial impressions lean toward restrained mineral notes and subtle aromatic complexity that evolves over time, gradually revealing more overt fruit aromas as the wine opens up in the glass.

On the palate, the wine is reported to offer a soft and approachable entry, supported by light tannins that provide gentle structure. Tasting notes from the retailer mention juicy, pear-like fruitiness balanced by fresh acidity and a savory umami quality that lingers. There is a hint of sweetness that adds to the overall impression of purity and concentration. The wine is said to continue developing over several days after opening, suggesting good underlying structure despite its seemingly easygoing nature.

Food pairing possibilities are broad, ranging from traditional Japanese cuisine such as sashimi, tempura, and steamed chicken dishes to Italian fare including caprese salad, seafood fritto misto, and risotto. Fresh cheeses like ricotta and mozzarella are also suggested as complementary partners. The wine’s combination of minerality, gentle acidity, and umami character makes it versatile at the table. During warmer months, serving it well chilled as an aperitif or alongside light appetizers is another appealing option.

The wine is available through a specialized Italian wine retailer on a major Japanese e-commerce platform, priced at 3,960 yen including tax. Shipping becomes free when purchasing six or more bottles, making it economical for those who wish to stock up. The importer is well regarded in the Japanese market for careful selection and quality control of natural wines from Italy. Given the temperature sensitivity of wines made with minimal sulfur additions, the retailer recommends using refrigerated shipping during hot weather to ensure the wine arrives in optimal condition. Customer reviews currently average 3.7 out of 5 stars from ten ratings, with the variation inherent in natural wines potentially contributing to the range of opinions.

Overall, this cuvee represents a compelling example of what can be achieved when a dedicated grower works in harmony with volcanic terroir and a historic grape variety. The 2024 release offers a window into a vintage that overcame climatic difficulties to deliver a wine of finesse and purity. For those interested in exploring authentic expressions of northeastern Italian winemaking traditions carried out with a natural philosophy, this bottle merits serious consideration. Its combination of accessible pricing, food-friendly character, and genuine artisanal quality makes it a rewarding addition to any wine lover’s repertoire.